Los Angeles Travel Guide: Beyond Hollywood
Los Angeles is a city of contradictions—glamorous yet gritty, sprawling yet intimate, superficial yet deeply creative. It's not one city but a collection of distinct neighborhoods, each with its own personality. From the beaches of Santa Monica to the hills of Griffith Park, from the tacos of East LA to the galleries of Downtown, LA rewards those who look beyond the Hollywood stereotypes.
The key to enjoying LA is understanding that it's a car city. Distances are vast, traffic is real, and public transit is limited. But this sprawl also means incredible diversity—you can surf in the morning, hike in the afternoon, and catch a world-class concert at night. LA is what you make of it.
Where to Stay
Santa Monica - Best for First-Time Visitors
Santa Monica offers the classic California beach experience with the pier, Third Street Promenade, and miles of sandy beach. It's touristy but convenient, with easy access to Venice Beach, Malibu, and West LA.
Hotels here range from budget motels to luxury beachfront properties. You're walking distance to the beach, restaurants, and shopping. The downside is that you're far from Hollywood, Downtown, and other attractions—expect 30-60 minutes of driving to reach them.
**Best for:** Beach lovers, families, first-time visitors who want a safe, walkable area.
West Hollywood/Beverly Hills - Best for Shopping and Nightlife
WeHo is the heart of LA's nightlife and LGBTQ+ scene, with the Sunset Strip, trendy restaurants, and designer shopping. Beverly Hills offers luxury shopping on Rodeo Drive and upscale dining.
This area is central—you can reach beaches, Hollywood, and Downtown in 20-30 minutes (without traffic). Hotels are expensive but you're in the middle of everything.
**Best for:** Nightlife seekers, shoppers, those who want a central location.
Downtown LA - Best for Culture and Food
Downtown has transformed from a business district into a cultural hub with museums, restaurants, bars, and the Arts District. It's grittier than West LA but more authentic and interesting.
Hotels here are newer and often cheaper than beach areas. You're close to Little Tokyo, Chinatown, and the Arts District. The downside is limited beach access and the area can feel empty on weekends.
**Best for:** Culture vultures, foodies, business travelers, those interested in the "real" LA.
Venice Beach - Best for Bohemian Vibes
Venice offers a more laid-back, eclectic vibe than Santa Monica. The boardwalk is famous for street performers, muscle beach, and colorful characters. The neighborhood has great restaurants, vintage shops, and the Venice Canals.
Hotels and Airbnbs here are pricier but you're in one of LA's most unique neighborhoods. It's walkable and bikeable, with a strong community feel.
**Best for:** Creative types, those seeking authentic LA culture, beach lovers who want more edge than Santa Monica.
Pasadena - Best for Budget and Quiet
Pasadena is 30 minutes from downtown LA but feels like a different world. It's quieter, more affordable, and has beautiful architecture, great restaurants, and proximity to hiking trails.
Hotels here are cheaper and you avoid the beach crowds. The downside is you're farther from beaches and need a car for everything.
**Best for:** Budget travelers, those who want quiet, visitors interested in architecture and gardens.
Top Attractions
Griffith Observatory (Free)
Perched in the Hollywood Hills, Griffith Observatory offers stunning views of LA and the Hollywood Sign. The observatory itself has fascinating exhibits about space and astronomy. Planetarium shows are available for a small fee.
**Tips:** Arrive before sunset to see the city in daylight and stay for the lights at night. Parking is limited—arrive early (before 2 PM) or take a rideshare. The hike from the parking lot is steep, so wear comfortable shoes.
Getty Center (Free, parking $20)
One of the world's great art museums, the Getty features European paintings, sculptures, and decorative arts in a stunning hilltop setting designed by Richard Meier. The gardens alone are worth the visit.
**Tips:** Reserve free timed tickets online. Plan for 2-3 hours minimum. The tram ride up the hill is part of the experience. Bring a picnic to enjoy in the gardens.
Hollywood Walk of Fame & TCL Chinese Theatre
The Walk of Fame is exactly what you expect—stars on the sidewalk and tourists taking photos. TCL Chinese Theatre (formerly Grauman's) has celebrity handprints and footprints in the forecourt.
**Tips:** It's free to walk around but very touristy. Go early morning to avoid crowds. Don't pay for photos with costumed characters—they'll demand tips. Combine with a studio tour or Hollywood Bowl visit to make the trip worthwhile.
Santa Monica Pier
The iconic pier features an amusement park, arcade, aquarium, and restaurants. It's touristy but quintessentially California. The beach on either side is excellent for swimming and sunbathing.
**Tips:** Free to walk around, pay per ride for attractions. Sunset is the best time for photos. Parking is expensive ($15-20)—consider biking or taking the Metro.
Venice Beach Boardwalk
A carnival of humanity—street performers, vendors, bodybuilders at Muscle Beach, skaters, and artists. It's chaotic, colorful, and uniquely LA.
**Tips:** Best in the afternoon when it's most active. Watch your belongings—pickpockets target tourists. The beach itself is beautiful and less crowded than Santa Monica.
The Broad Museum (Free)
Downtown's contemporary art museum features works by Warhol, Lichtenstein, Koons, and more. The Infinity Mirror Rooms by Yayoi Kusama are Instagram-famous.
**Tips:** Reserve free tickets online weeks in advance—they sell out quickly. The museum is small, plan for 1-2 hours. Combine with lunch in the Arts District.
Runyon Canyon
Popular hiking trail with views of the Hollywood Sign and city. It's a scene—you'll see actors, models, and influencers working out. Dogs are allowed off-leash.
**Tips:** Go early morning (before 8 AM) to avoid heat and crowds. Bring water and sunscreen. The trail is steep and exposed—wear good shoes and a hat.
Universal Studios Hollywood
Theme park and working studio with rides based on movies and TV shows. The Studio Tour takes you through actual backlots and sets.
**Tips:** Buy tickets online for discounts. Arrive at opening to hit popular rides first. Skip weekends and holidays if possible. The Wizarding World of Harry Potter is a must-see.
Rodeo Drive
Window shopping on one of the world's most famous luxury shopping streets. Even if you're not buying, it's fun to see the stores and people-watch.
**Tips:** Free to walk around. Most stores welcome browsers. Grab coffee at a nearby cafe and enjoy the scene. Best combined with exploring Beverly Hills.
La Brea Tar Pits
Active paleontological site where Ice Age fossils are still being excavated. The museum shows saber-toothed cats, mammoths, and other prehistoric animals found here.
**Tips:** Great for families. Plan for 1-2 hours. The outdoor tar pits are free to view. Museum admission is $15 for adults.
Food & Dining
Breakfast
**Sqirl (Silver Lake):** Creative breakfast dishes with house-made jams. The ricotta toast is legendary. Expect a wait on weekends.
**The Griddle Cafe (Hollywood):** Massive pancakes that could feed three people. Fun, over-the-top breakfast spot.
**Republique (Mid-City):** French bakery and bistro with incredible pastries. The morning bun is worth the trip alone.
Tacos
LA has the best Mexican food outside of Mexico. Don't leave without trying authentic tacos.
**Guisados:** Braised meat tacos with homemade tortillas. The cochinita pibil is incredible.
**Leo's Tacos Truck:** Al pastor tacos cooked on a vertical spit. Multiple locations, open late.
**Tacos 1986:** Tijuana-style tacos with handmade tortillas. Simple and perfect.
Burgers
**In-N-Out Burger:** California institution. Order "animal style" (grilled onions, extra sauce). It's cheap, fast, and delicious.
**Father's Office:** Gourmet burger with caramelized onions and blue cheese. No substitutions, no ketchup.
**Apple Pan:** Classic diner burger since 1947. Sit at the counter and order the hickory burger.
Fine Dining
**Providence:** Two Michelin stars, focusing on seafood. Chef Michael Cimarusti creates elegant, refined dishes.
**Bestia (Arts District):** Italian restaurant with house-made charcuterie and pasta. Reservations required weeks in advance.
**n/naka:** Japanese kaiseki by Chef Niki Nakayama. One of LA's best restaurants. Book months ahead.
Korean Food
LA's Koreatown has the best Korean food outside Korea.
**Sun Nong Dan:** 24-hour comfort food. The galbi jjim (braised short ribs) is incredible.
**Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong:** Korean BBQ with high-quality meat. Fun, lively atmosphere.
Food Trucks
LA pioneered the gourmet food truck movement. Check social media for locations.
**Kogi BBQ:** Korean-Mexican fusion that started the food truck craze. The short rib tacos are legendary.
Budget-Friendly
**Grand Central Market (Downtown):** Historic market with diverse food stalls. Try Eggslut for breakfast, Sarita's Pupuseria for lunch.
**Pink's Hot Dogs:** Hollywood institution since 1939. The chili dogs are famous.
**Porto's Bakery:** Cuban bakery with incredible pastries and sandwiches. Always a line but worth it.
Getting Around
Driving
LA is a car city. Renting a car gives you the most flexibility but comes with challenges:
**Traffic:** Rush hour (7-10 AM, 4-7 PM) is brutal. The 405 freeway is notoriously congested. Use Google Maps to check traffic before leaving.
**Parking:** Street parking is often metered. Read signs carefully—LA parking enforcement is aggressive. Valet is common at restaurants ($5-10).
**Freeways:** The 405, 101, and 10 are your main routes. Learn them quickly. Carpool lanes (2+ people) can save time during rush hour.
Rideshares
Uber and Lyft are widely available and often more convenient than dealing with parking. Costs add up quickly though—expect $20-40 for longer trips.
Metro
- Red Line: Downtown to Hollywood
- Expo Line: Downtown to Santa Monica
- Gold Line: Downtown to Pasadena
It's cheap ($1.75 per ride) but doesn't cover most tourist areas. Good for avoiding traffic to specific destinations.
Biking
Santa Monica and Venice Beach have bike paths. Bike rentals are available. Not recommended for longer distances due to traffic and sprawl.
From LAX
**Rental car:** Most convenient for exploring LA. All major companies have counters at the airport.
**FlyAway bus:** $10 to Union Station downtown. Runs every 30 minutes.
**Rideshare:** $30-60 depending on destination and traffic. Designated pickup area on lower level.
**Metro:** Coming soon—the LAX People Mover will connect to Metro in 2024.
Local Tips
Traffic is Real
Don't underestimate LA traffic. What looks like 10 miles on a map can take an hour during rush hour. Always check Google Maps before leaving and add 30% more time than it suggests.
Weather
LA has microclimates. It can be 70°F at the beach and 90°F in the Valley. Mornings are often foggy at the coast ("June Gloom" and "May Gray"). Bring layers.
Beach Parking
Arrive before 10 AM for free or cheap parking. Afternoon parking is expensive ($15-20) and hard to find. Consider biking or taking rideshare.
Hiking
Trails can be hot and exposed. Bring water, sunscreen, and a hat. Start early (before 9 AM) to avoid heat and crowds. Rattlesnakes are real—stay on trails.
Tipping
Standard 18-20% at restaurants, $1-2 per drink at bars, $2-5 per bag for valets and porters.
Reservations
Popular restaurants book up fast. Make reservations well in advance or try going for lunch instead of dinner.
Free Activities
Hiking Griffith Park, walking Venice Beach boardwalk, exploring Getty Center, window shopping on Rodeo Drive, watching sunset from Santa Monica Pier.
Neighborhoods to Explore
**Silver Lake:** Hipster coffee shops, vintage stores, trendy restaurants.
**Arts District:** Galleries, street art, breweries, and restaurants in converted warehouses.
**Los Feliz:** Vintage shops, indie theaters, and a more laid-back vibe.
**Abbot Kinney (Venice):** Boutiques, restaurants, and galleries on a walkable street.
Studio Tours
Warner Bros and Paramount offer more intimate tours than Universal. You'll see actual working sets and soundstages. Book in advance.
Avoid
Hollywood Boulevard at night (touristy and sketchy), driving during rush hour if possible, leaving valuables visible in your car (break-ins are common), eating at chain restaurants (LA has incredible independent restaurants).
The Bottom Line
LA rewards exploration. Don't just hit the tourist spots—venture into neighborhoods, try authentic ethnic food, hike the trails, and experience the diversity that makes LA special. Yes, there's traffic. Yes, it's sprawling. But there's also incredible food, beautiful beaches, world-class museums, and endless sunshine.
The best way to experience LA is to pick a neighborhood each day and explore it thoroughly rather than trying to see everything. Slow down, embrace the car culture, and discover why millions of people choose to call this sprawling, chaotic, beautiful city home.